Friday, June 14, 2013

Cantine Olivella -Sant'Anastasia (Na)- Wine Tasting on the Run

I was degustando that Sunday.  Wine tasting in  downtown Napoli during the 9th edition of VitignoItalia 2013  held in  the picturesque medieval Castel del"Ovo.  I didn't have a lot of time, so when I entered Sala B, I headed right towards a familiar face, smile, and winery. Angela Giordana and Cantine Olivella.  It's been awhile since I had a chance to talk with gli amici from Sant'Anastasia.  I was curious about the new vintage, particularly the whites.   Like their Lacrimabianco Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco D.O.CC. made from Caprettone and Catalanesco grapes grown in  rich vulcanic soil.  I began my degustazione noticing the light straw yellow color, the light white floral aromas.  Then I tasted.  Full, sapid, flavorful.  Flavorful?  Fantastic...with a nice finish.
Lacrimabianco 2012
I didn't have a lot of time, so I asked Angela to pour me the next white.   Emblema Vesuvio Bianco D.O.C 2012 produced with 100% Caprettone.  Caprettone (related to Coda di Volpe) really shows its potential in this wine.  The color is deeper, aromas are fresh herbal.  But as I took a first sip, a second, I then went for the third.  Impressed with the fullness, the smoothness, the flavor.  Wine pairing possibilities are endless.  Especially for warm summer  fish based appetizers or the whole meal for that matter.
Emblema 2012
Sadly time to move on.  I had time for one more white wine during my wine tasting on the run.  Angela poured me a wine that I knew well.   Kata' IGT Catalanesca del Monte Somma 2012.  Catalanesco 100%.  I observed closely as Angela poured.  It was hard not to be reminded of  my son and I helping out during their 2010 harvest. My first harvest.  Nose to the glass...a mix of young fruit and white florals.  My palate enjoyed the morbidezza-smoothness.  The flavors.  The full body.  The nice long finish.
Kata' 2012
One that I lingered on as Angela asked me if I wanted to try something else.  Their new reds such as Vipt Vesuvio Rosso DOC produced with 100 % Piedirosso.  Or maybe their Lacrimanero Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio D.O.C. with a blend of Piedirosso, Aglianico, Olivella.   Or maybe, since I enjoyed their Kata',surely I would be curious to try their VO Passito di IGT Catalanesca del Monte Somma.  
I was curious.  I wanted to try them all.  But I was wine tasting on the run. Which meant just one thing.  I need to schedule a Vineyard Hopping to Sant'Anastasia...and soon.
By the way, on my way out of the fair, I discovered that Cantine Olivella won two awards during the fair.  Premio Speciale per i Giovane:  Ciro Giordano  and the Medaglia D'Oro (Gold Medal) per i Bianchi for Emblema...
Congratulations!!



Monday, June 10, 2013

Serendipity - Calamarata Pasta with Fellone Crab and Squid ...on the Roof

Wikipedia: Serendipity means  a "happy accident" or "pleasant surprise"; specifically, the accident of finding something good or useful without looking for it. 

Some of the best moments are those that are impromptu...al momento...improvisato.  At least that's what I believe.  Like a recent visit to Roof & Sky to take a few pictures for my  last blog.  I sent owner Michele Grande a text message the morning of our appointment asking to change the time from 5 pm to 1230 pm.  Ok was his reply.
I didn't expect to see photographer and pirate Giannantonio.  Or even gastronaut Nando.  And I surely didn't expect one of the most unforgettable plates of pasta ...ever.
So during the interview, between a spritz a few appetizers and a glass of wine, the guys took turns stirring the calamarata pasta by cooking it directly in the pasta sauce, not boiling water.  Like cooking a risotto, Grand explained...This way the pasta soaks in all the flavors of the sauce.
Sauce?  Sauce.  He took a little extra virgin olive oil and sauteed a clove or two of garlic and a little peperoncino.  Then he added granchio fellone - a small crab with very little meat.  Little meat but claws full of flavor that seeped out into the sauce during cooking.  He also added a few squid. Why not?  In the end, a tasty plate.  
Unexpected.
Appreciated
Serendipity.  

Saturday, June 8, 2013

An Aperitivo on the Roof- Roof & Sky, Lago Miseno (Na)

It had been awhile since I had been up on the roof.    So that probably explains the flood of memories that rushed into my mind as I walked the plank on Pontile # 3, Lake Miseno. The plank that led me to Asteco e Cielo- Roof & Sky.
It was lunchtime ish and this lounge bar/boat on the lake had plenty of appetizers for me to snack on while I hung out on the deck chatting away with owner Michele Grande.  Chatting away with Grande about what makes this barca in the heart of Campi Flegrei one of the hottest spots on the lake.

By day - It is open as early as 8 am for a caffe', cappucino, and cornetto.  The perfect place to read the morning paper.  Or relax after that morning stroll around Bacoli's Villa Comunale.  Mid day.  Appetizers all around.




 Plenty to snack on over a glass of wine, aperitivo, or any of the wide range of frozen cocktails and mixed drinks the bar has to offer.  That afternoon I was lucky.  Grande decided to prepare us a light lunch..  He prepared one of the dishes  from his restaurant La Bifora.  A plate of calamarata pasta with crab and squid (recipe soon).
A plate of pasta that paired perfectly with the view of Ischia and Procida from the terrace and a glass or two of Falanghina dei Campi Flegrei from Piscina Mirabile.  Over a cup of strawberries and cream, Grande reminded me what happens when the hot summer days turn into hot summer nights.  Roof & Sky leaves the pier and heads out to the center of the lake around 10 pm ish.   The perfect place for a night cap, a bottle of champagne with friends, a plate of sushi flegreo...
But for that, I'd have to come back...soon.



Roof & Sky
Lago Miseno - Pontile # 3
80070 Bacoli (Na)
333 276 1608

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Caseificio Barlotti - Capaccio (Sa)

Well, if you've seen one mozzarella dairy you've seen them all. 
Or so I thought.  Until I bumped into   Raffaele Barlotti at his dairy's bar one Monday evening.  Over a caffe' he invited me to come back the next day for a look around.
I arrived at about 10:00 am the next morning.  After just  five minutes, my tour guide Sandro at Caseificio Barlotti,  I forgot about the dozen or so times I have seen mozzarella at work as a chaperone on the obligatory school field trips.  This time seemed like the first time.  Sandro decided that we should begin in the  production area which was in full swing.  But first, he sais, I needed a little protection,. A pair of blue plastic baggies that I just slipped over my shoes and I was ready to go.
Ready to observe all the action of mozzarella making Paestum style .  So much activity going on all around.  I listened attentively as Sandro explained the cheese making process...First of all...100 % buffalo milk...from buffaloes milked two times a day on Barlotti's dairy.  Then a series of steps such as acidification and coagulation.  I watched as the curd was broken up...the serum separated from the curd...


Every now and then, Sandro told me to step back.  This was the phase in which boiling water was added to the curd.  

Then, the cheese maker with his wooden magic wand stirred and stirred until he magically transformed the broken up curd into something smooth and beautiful.




At this point, the mozzarella was almost complete.  The mozzarella balls that we all know and love could be formed by hand or by machine.  Either way, their last stop was into a tank of water to cool down. Then transferred into saline tanks so that the cheese can absorb some of the salt...some of the flavor.





Fresh mozzarella that if conserved properly (4 to 10 degrees Celsius in the lovely liquid that it was sold with) for 8 days.
As much fun as I was having in the production area, Sandro suggested we go and see the buffaloes.  And why not?  First a quick walk through the milking room to see where the buffaloes are milked, two times a day...at 3 am and 3 pm.  All by machine with just one worker to man the equipment.


Then I was ready to see the buffaloes.
And there were plenty of them.  First, the older females...some relaxing in the sun.  Others eating an early lunch of straw, hay and corn.  It was entertaining to watch a few who would toss up the mixture in the air with their snouts to search for the sweet dried corn.


Before I could ask where the little ones were, Sandro explained that they were in quarantine...After a week or so with their mothers, the law requires that they are separated from the older ones.   We stopped by for a visit.
After several months in quarantine, they (females) would then be free to eat drink and be merry until the ripe old age of three. When the child bearing milk producing years would begin.  Where their milk would be used to make mozzarella or other products such as ricotta, butter, caciocavallo, provola  etc. Available for sale online, in their shop, or even in their small restaurant which is open for lunch.


Over a glass of buffalo milk, I learned about how precious those buffalo were.  Not only for their milk...but for their meat as well.
:

Lean.  High in protein.  Low in calories.  And maybe on my next visit I'll try some.  In Barlotti's small restaurant.  A small table in the garden.  A few slices of salami produced with buffalo meat. A side of ricotta.  A few boccocini di mozzarella...and a glass of wine.
Yes, that's what I'll do.

Caseificio Barlotti
Via Torre di Paestum 1, 
Capaccio Paestum Salerno
Tel. +39 0828811146
Fax +39 0828721047



Sunday, May 19, 2013

Cantine Aperte - 26 May 2013

Falanghina vineyards : Grotta del Sole
Next Sunday, Movimento Turismo Del Vino will hold its annual Cantine Aperte.  What does that mean?  It means that a wineries that are members of the association have planned all kinds of activities in their homes.  Activities to include vineyard visits, wine tastings, lunches, dinners, concets, etc.  For a complete list of which wineries are  participating in Campania, click here.  Then contact the winery or go to their site for more information.

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Profumo DiVino - Cantine Di Meo - Salza Irpina (Av)

I remember that day as if it were yesterday.  A visit with Roberto Di Meo at his winery, Cantine Di Meo last June.  I remember every detail; from the wines tasted to the music played during the tasting.  I learned a great deal about wine tasting that afternoon.  A great deal about taking my time and enjoying the aromas in a wine...and in everything for that matter.
I remember the little spray bottles that appeared out of nowhere.  Di Meo presented one of them as  campione #6321.  And on a small white napkin, he lightly spayed a bit.  Fiano...he told me.  profumo di fiano.  Un esperimento.  
An experiment...
stay tuned.
Well, I stayed tuned. Di Meo and I crossed paths several times over the past several months. and  would ask from time to time.  He would answer with a smile, and a little chuckle.Non c'e' fretta...no hurry.

So the experiment stayed just that- an experiment.  
Or so I thought.  
Campione #6321 has grown up - grown up and evolved into Profumo DiVino.  A bottle full of the aromas of Irpinia.  Fiano di Avellino... Di Meo's Fiano Di Avelino.  Not a perfume or cologne for your body...but a perfume for your environment...your home... your space. 
I pushed the spray nozzle once, twice three times...then closed my eyes.  Floral aromas...definitely fresh floral aromas floated through the air.  Aromas, though intense, were also relaxing.  And as the aromas dispersed, so did the intensity...though that relaxing feeling remained.  
A feeling that brought me back to my first visit to Di Meo's vineyard.  The aromas of Irpinia.   Memories that were now in a bottle.  That I could have whenever I wanted.  Whenever I wanted to take my time and enjoy.


Friday, May 17, 2013

Fantastic Firsts-Pasta e Patate con Provola Affumicata -Chef Gianluca D'Agostino - Veritas Restaurant (Na)


My son David is a big fan of pasta and potatoes.  So when I saw how big his eyes got after just one spoonful of Chef Gianluca D'Agostino's version last week while in Paestum for Le Strade Della Mozzarella , I just had to have the recipe.



Ingredients for four people: potatoes 500 g, 2 stalks of large white celery stalks, two large carrots, one onion, 150g of parmegiano reggiano cheese rinds (washed well), 200 g of pasta mista, 550 g smoked provola cheese, 500 ml of milk, 200 ml heavy cream, 50 ml extra virgin olive oil, black pepper  and salt to taste

Prepare the provola fondue by  cutting the cheese into large chunks, and leaving it to with the milk and cream at 70 ° C for about an hour.   Filter through  reduce by half, then emulsify with an immersion blender.
Prepare the mashed potatoes by cooking the cubed potatoes with one celery stalk,one carrot,  the parmegiano cheese rind.and the extra virgin olive oil. Once the potatoes have been cooked, remove the celery, carrot and cheese.  Mash the potatoes by using a food mill or potato ricer.  Add salt to taste.
Peel the remaining celery and carrots , cut into thin strips and make them crispy by soaking them in ice water.
Cook the pasta al dente and whip it with the melted cheese, potatoes and freshly ground black pepper Plate the pasta and  top with the slices of crunchy carrots and celery.