Taverna del Capitano. I stopped in the kitchen to say hello to Chef Alfonso Caputo and try to get a sneak peek on what would be in store for lunch. Yes, I was curious what was on the new spring menu, but also interested in what Caputo had in mind for my benvenuto. The Benvenuto is an off menu item that is served at the beginning of the meal. A bite, morsel, mini appetizer if you will, that changes daily. A fusion of fresh seasonal products and the chef's creativity. A glance around the kitchen with stainless steel countertops, I noticed a tray of brightly colored freshly washed zucchini flowers. My mind went immediately to memories Spaghetti with Zucchini alla Nerano, but Caputo told me that with these were the first zucchini of the season - for that dish it was better to wait. He had other plans for those zucchini. Those zucchini and their bright colorful flowers would be part of that day's benevenuto filled with a slice of mozzarella a drizzle of olive oil and gently steamed cooked.
Those zucchini would be placed on a platter alongside a meatball made with bluefish as well as a squid presented in the form soft, morbidissimo wafer and a little squid ink drizzled around the sides of the plate...cosi'.
Those zucchini were the beginning of a colorful, flavorful springtime lunch.
Sunday, April 19, 2015
Friday, April 17, 2015
Monday, April 6, 2015
Those were the words wine maker Luigi Sarno, Cantina del Barone, spoke to me the other day as we were walking down the narrow road that leads from his small wine cellar to his vineyards in Cesinali (Av).
A new wine? I thought. Vinitaly was just the previous week. It had been several months since I had seen Sarno, and a couple of years since I'd visited the vineyards. We chatted a bit, stop a couple of times on the small path that divides his Fiano vineyards into two separate sections.
I'll be right back, Sarno said.
He left me alone for a minute or two, so I decided to wander over to one of my favorite spots on the property. A majestic century old grapevine that seems to stretch its arms out wild as if to say welcome...
But something was different. To get to my vine, I had to walk around a freshly painted casa. Walk across a freshly cut lawn.
Sarno joined me.
This is what I wanted to show you, Sarno smiled as he held a set of keys.
And with that, he opened the door to his latest project. A project that he hopes will not only bring wine lovers to his territory...but will also keep them there.
4 mini apartments that can sleep up to 7 were just about ready. 4 mini apartments that would allow travelers an experience and not just a place to stay. An Irpinia full immersion provided by Sarno and his family which could expand to tours of other wineries in the area, visits to local artisans, farms, restaurants. Even cooking courses provided by Sarno's mom in the not so distant future.
My eyes went from Sarno to the window as I imagined myself waking up here, having breakfast with a caffe' and fresh jams prepared by the Sarno family.
There are just a few finishing touches before opening like bedding, toiletries, and...a name.
Thursday, April 2, 2015
Piero Mastroberardino's coffee table in his private office in Atripalda. A lone unopened bottle waiting alongside three place settings - three empty wine glasses. I was about to begin a wine tasting featuring some of Mastroberardino Winery's latest white wines in the company of Piero Mastroberadino and enologist Massimo Di Renzo. And I was ready.
The bottle sat there while we tasted and chatted about the latest crus, I took notes, in silent anticipation of the newest member of the Mastroberardino family; Neroameta' Campania Bianco IGT 2013. A wine presented at Vinitaly last week and tasted by few. (The winery only took 15 bottles to Verona, so you could imagine how quickly that went)
Neroameta' - a white wine made with Irpinia's most popular red grape - Aglianico. A white wine, made with red grapes, but not a rose'.
Maybe I should have known what that meant, surely I've read about that vinification process in my studies over the past years, maybe I had tasted a similar wine - but I decided to speak up and pose a question to Di Renzo.
How is this vinification process different than producing a rose', especially since the color - I noticed- is not, well for lack of better words...rose'.
Di Renzo told me that the grapes are placed in the press whole and gently pressed halfway in a manner that the must does not come in contact with the skins as it would with a rose'.
That being said, I was still curious about what would emerge from the bottle as it was poured first in my glass, then Mastroberardino's, then Di Renzo's. A very light straw color, and depending on the lighting, and how you examined the glass, what was that? Grey tones?
The tasting began, Once again, I was silent first enjoying/interpreting the bouquet in the glass while I listened to Mastroberardino and Di Renzo's converstaion. (I have always found it interesting to listen to wine makers discuss their wines)
Then I took a quick taste, not sure what to expect. What I found was pleasantly unexpected. Evident was the powerful arm of Aglianico lovingly embracing the freshness and acidity that one would find in a young yet elegant and distinguished Irpinia white.
I kept my thoughts to myself for the moment, instead wanting to discuss particulars like the wine label. Knowing that Mastroberardino is a talented artist, I was curious as to why he chose this particular design from his large inventory.
Mastroberardino arose, went to the back corner of his office/personal art gallery , and brought back a large framed version. He pointed out the strong feminine yet muscular arms, shoulders, and back. A play on contrasts.
And the name? Neroameta'?
One of several names that made the final cut. Nero - black - for the blackish color of the Aglianico grape, for example.
While listening, I brought my glass of Neroameta' to my nose several times, noticing how floral aromas were emerging and evolving. Young fresh white floral aromas. Aromas that reminded Di Renzo of flowers that grow in his mother's garden.
Mastroberardino then shared that the concept of producing a white wine with Aglianico was not new at all for Mastroberardino. His father, the late Dr. Antonio Mastroberardino produced a similar wine back in the mid 80s named Plinius. It was a popular wine that enjoyed 4 glorious vintages. It was then decided to stop production and focus the winery's energy into promoting Fiano, Greco and Lacryma Christi.
|photo courtesy of Mastroberardino Winery|
So a new wine that is not so new?
Yes and no. Learning from Dr Mastroberardino's notes from the 80s, the winery experimented new techniques. The 3000 bottles produced spent about 10 months sur lees, for example.
Our conversation then continued to possible pairings. I myself could picture myself on a terrace of one of the many Campania restaurants which have an amazing view of the sea. Enjoying the view and seafood that pair so well with Irpinia white wines.
It was time to move on to the next wine, but we decided to hang on to our glass of Neroameta'...as if waiting to see what this wine had to share with us as the tasting continued. As our conversations continued - from art, to literature (Mastroberardino's latest book), then back to wine.
That is the beauty of a degustazione.
Discovering what a wine has to say.
Neroameta' will be available later this month. It will be interesting to discover what Neroameta' will continue to share over the next few months...or years for that matter.
Tuesday, March 31, 2015
That's why going back to Milagros Gastrobar a little more than a year ish after their grand opening was such a treat. Milagros Gastrobar is a small Spanish restaurant tucked in a vico a whisper away from the hustle and bustle of Mergellina's lungomare. I visited back in the fall of 2013 when Chef Carlos Peña and Marina Delle Monache had just opened up. I decided to go back a couple of weeks ago for a chat, a glass or two of Spanish vinos, and a fresh look and taste of their revamped tapas and paella menu.
|Chef Carlos Peña|
We began with Xato', a crunchy escarole salad which the chef prepared for me at my table as he explained the ingredients. Ingredients which included black olives and a romesco sauce, popular Catalonia, Northern Spain made with nuts and red peppers.
Since we all love little fried balls of goodness, it was only natural that I'd try a jamon croquette.
Excited to see a wine list with affordable Spanish wines, like this fresh crisp white which paired well with my dishes.
Next up, this dish-Huevos “Cidón”-scrambled eggs with potatoes, morcilla di León, and a granny smith green apple sauce. Chef Carlos Peña's tribute to his maestro, Carlos Cidón (Castilla e León's first michelin star chef) who passed away a few years ago.
And what better wine to go with carrilleras with Spanish sauce. Slow cooked braised veal with a red wine reduction sauce. Red peppers on the side.
And arròs negre with clams...
She brought me over my dessert. How did she know I liked chocolate? Tartufo di di carajillo - with chocoalate, coffee and oruju - a popular brandy from Northern Spain.
A bit of Spagna in Napoli.
Via S.Maria in Portico, 15
Tel: 081 032 0143
Sunday, March 29, 2015
Mastroberardino Winery a few weeks ago. An invitation for a tasting of the latest wines? No. I looked closer and saw that it was something different. I circled the date - 27 March - and place - Museo Madre (Na).
The museum was packed full of scholars, artists, writers, journalists, and wine enthusiasts like me patiently listening as Piero Mastroberardino explained his latest project. A project to break away from the business as usual form of communicating wines. A wine world that he comes in contact with daily as he skims through international wine magazines and guides and travels around the world promoting his family's historical winery. A project which takes his passion for his territory and melds it with his love of the arts. So he, alongside talented director Nicolangelo Gelormini, shared with us their vision - a short video of life in the vineyard.
We were treated to this...
|Piero Mastroberardino, journalist Rocco Moliterni, and Nicolangelo Gelormini|
We were treated to this...
Silence from the crowd as we reflected on what we had seen - then a roar of applause. Applause that died down a bit only to watch the video again. To absorb all that was happening. To meditate, if you will, on the scenery which includes an Aglianico vineyard and a Chinese church altar. To think about the symbolism of wine as blood from the earth - sangue della terra.
The video continued to play throughout the rest of the evening. Those of us who were treated to this world premiere screening enjoyed appetizers and a glass of wine or two as we discussed what we saw and what was to come ahead.
Yes, we were treated to this special screening, but there are big plans for Sentieri di Vite. The video is available by scanning the QR code on the back of the winery's bottles.
Music and striking images vs the usual technical data.
Thursday, March 19, 2015
So I decided to head out to San Giorgio a Cremano to Francesco&Salvatore Salvo - one of Campania's top pizzerias.
While greeting Francesco Salvo and the rest of the staff -Ciao, how have you been, it's been a while, etc etc - my eye was on the Enomatic wine dispenser machine that has a pole position near the front of the pizzeria. I was curious of the wine by the glass selection which changes often.
Bello - of the eight wines offered -three whites, four reds - three were from Campania. Three heavy hitters; Terrantica Etichetta Bianca Greco di Tufo DOCG 2011 by I Favati, Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2011 from Rocca del Principe, and Fatica Contandina Taurasi DOCG 2008, Terredora. Wines that you'd expect to see on a top restaurant wine list were here, within my reach at anywhere from 4 to 6 Euro a glass.
My wine selection would have to wait until I decided on which pizza I wanted. In the meantime, I wanted to try the famous Salvo fritture - fried goodies. Particularly two new items; fried pasta and potatoes and batter fried cod. With a glass of wine? How about champagne???
Why not? I needed a break! And with the option of ordering by the glass I went for it. Pommery Noir Brut paired perfectly.
Pizza chosen - though it wasn't easy. I went for Nduja e Verzin - a white pizza with mozzarella di bufala campana DOP, nduja and verzin cheese. I paired it with a glass of Terredora's Taurasi that I spied in the dispenser earlier.
While waiting, I decided to skim the wine list. I mean, if the wine dispenser had some hot picks what would be featured in the carta dei vini? A wine list that included 105 reds, 73 whites, and 21 top champagnes, marsala, beer,
We're in a pizzeria, right?
A wine list jam packed with some of the top wineries in Campania. A wine list whose prices are easy on the wallet. (la arge selection of wines around 15 euro a bottle)
I spoke with pizzamaker Salvatore Salvo for a bit before I left. We talked about pizza. We talked about the wine list.
A wine list which let's folks like me who need a break...
who need a pizza...
and who need a glass of wine enjoy it more often...
Salvo pizzaioli da 3 generazioni srl
Largo Arso 10-16
80046 San Giorgio a Cremano (Napoli)
tel. 081 275306